Once Kermit and I tasted that 20 year old Bandol, he and his wife, Gail Skoff, served up squab and a casserole of scalloped potatoes layered with truffles. Of course, the match was perfect in every way, but not exactly your normal Friday night meal. In lieu of that, I prescribe slow smoked birds, like duck or Cornish game hen. But from many years of experience, I also know that Bandol's salt and flint nuanced berry qualities are absolutely delicious with Island style smoked pulled pork (what we call kalua pig), which differs from Southern style pulled pork in that it's not mixed in or served with a vinegary, sweet-spicy barbecue sauce (Bandol doesn't have the pointedly sweet, berry jam flavors like, say, California Zinfandel to handle American barbecue sauces).

No, for Bandol all you need is a fork tender, steamy pile of smoked pork dolled up with nothing more than rock salt. The ancient Hawaiians traditionally dug a 6 x 4 x 3 foot hole in the ground to make their kalua – the whole pig cooked over blazing hot rocks, covered with banana leaves and burlap, and then buried in the ground to steam a good 24 hours. I'm not suggesting you find your fatted pig, dig up the backyard or drive down to Louisiana for your banana leaves. After many years of living off-island, I've devised my own total "lazy man’s" way of cooking Hawaiian style pulled pork, requiring nothing more than time:

• 5-8 lb. pork butt
• ¼ cup sea salt (Hawaiian if you can find it; kosher in a pinch)
• 2 oz. liquid smoke (or ½ bottle of Wright's Liquid Hickory Smoke)

Pre-heat oven to 350° F. Score pork butt and place in a big enough Dutch oven. Combine salt and liquid smoke and rub all over pork butt. Pour water half-way up side of pork; cover with heavy duty aluminum foil and roast in oven, at least 1 hour per pound. The entire house will smell like a smoker, but that’s okay… just open a window and pop a well chilled bottle of Bandol rosé (some say, the finest dry pink wine in the world). Remove pork from water, place in large bowl and shred with tongs or strong forks. Mix in additional rock salt to taste. Serve with steamed white rice, collard greens or spinach, fresh sliced tomatoes, the Bandol rouge, and you're in business!

From Cooking Pork Butt to Memphis in May