To round out the troika of best restaurants in San Miguel, we pick Andanza at the Casa de Sierra Nevada, a lovely hotel that's part of the Orient Express chain. Gonzalo Martinez worked at the Adolphus Hotel in Dallas and the Windsor Court in New Orleans before heading home to Mexico. Definitely start your meal with cuitlacoche cappuccino, a divine concoction featuring the corn fungus sometimes called Mexican truffles. Other menu specialties include hibiscus marinated quail or pan-seared scallops with smoked bacon lardoons. The building was once home to the Archbishop of San Miguel de Allende. Where the holy man once slept is now the bar.

Spires of the Parroquia de San Miguel grace the city's skyline

These are the top-of-the-line-and-wallet places, but it's possible to eat very well in San Miguel de Allende for small change. One of the most pleasant spots in town on a sunny day (most of the time) is the terrace at El Ten Ten Pie. Sit under an umbrella by the blossoming orange trees and watch the world go by. The food is standard Mexican—tacos, giant burritos, enchiladas, and very good arrachera—all nicely cooked and reasonably priced. For the best view of the lovely pseudo-Gothic Parroquia church, try the pretty upstairs terrace at La Posadita. Menu specialties include pozole, a thick pork stew with hominy, and cochinita pibil, shredded pork in a tangy sauce of achiote and sour orange juice.

Favorite Local San Miguel Restaurants

For the best chiles en nogada in town, that delicate mixture of stuffed poblano chiles, creamy walnut sauce and pomegranate seeds, go to La Bugambilia, the oldest and one of the prettiest restaurants in San Miguel. Owner Mercedes Arteaga has been serving up traditional Mexican dishes here for over 50 years. And for an equally authentic but dead cheap meal, head up the hill to Tacos Don Felix. It's grown from a street cart just over a year ago, to one of the most popular "cheap eats" San Miguel restaurants in town. Get a plate with half a dozen different kinds of tacos, the fillings scooped onto tiny, fresh tortillas.

Cochinita pibil at La Posadita

There's no lack of good places for coffee in San Miguel, but the flat-out best coffee in town is at Cafe (that's the whole name). Very popular with local ex-pats. For lovingly hand-made, fresh artisan bread and pastries, try La Buena Vida bakery. There's a take-out counter, or have breakfast or lunch on the delightful small patio. The whole-grain breads are both healthy and delicious and make great sandwiches. Then if you're feeling peckish for a snack, mid-morning or mid-afternoon, the place to hit is Cafe San Agustin for churros y chocolate. Three fresh warm churros, those long, extruded Mexican donuts drenched in sugar, come with every order of hot chocolate. Choose Spanish, French or Mexican chocolate, each with its own level of sweetness.

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